Saturday, 24 March 2012

Energy Efficient Front Doors - What to Look for?


We’re much more energy conscious nowadays than ever before so it’s a big consideration when making changes to our homes to assess what will save on those all-important energy bills. Front doors in particular can be classic culprits and if the door in particular is old and the material hasn’t worn well then maybe it’s time for a new one.

Energy efficient aluminium panel front door

 Good quality front doors are now built with efficiency in mind, but older style doors are likely to be drafty and show light through gaps between the frame and the actual door. You need to therefore look for the perfect fit and a material whereby the weather doesn’t impact on door swell; made-to-measure front doors are often a good solution as they won’t require further work to ensure a perfect fit and will also mean no air or water infiltration dependent on the material.

Weather-stripping is also important along with the way the door is actually installed. Bad fitted doors are likely to have gaps between the bottom sweep and the floor along with gaps at the edges possibly as a result of badly fitted components such as hinges. Screws therefore need to be snug and it’s best to use high-quality components in brushed steel or brass to achieve the best results.

Building regulations now state that external doors have to comply to U-value ratings (the measurement of heat loss through a material) of 1.8W/m²K. Achievable U-values will depend on the size of the door, the type of frame, sealants used and also glazing and glazing coatings; so by choosing the right supplier and installer in particular you could potentially lower the rating and save further.

For added insulation to achieve even better U-values, consider a high insulating core – there are specialist materials on the market which go the extra mile, Sunfold Systems offers such materials. Flush front doors with a smooth one level finish will limit gaps and flaws and glazing options will also help such as opting for triple glazing with a low-e coating. These extras will help not only achieve the required 1.8W/m²K U-value, but in fact push the rating even lower. There are some aluminium doors on the market, for example, which can achieve U-values between 1.4W/m²K and 1.3W/m²K.

Front doors tend to be made from either wood, metal (steel or aluminium), uPVC or made from composite materials, all of which have their plus points and negatives when considering thermal efficiency and overall aesthetics.

Solid wood doors risk warping and deteriorating over time as temperatures and weather conditions change so frequently the wood can swell, this general movement can create extra air gaps and change the overall fit. Wood veneer doors are an alternative as they will still have a wood core but will minimise warping depending on the quality and thickness of the veneer. uPVC on the other hand will remain rigid for a period of time although uPVC does have the tendency to expand with heat and can therefore warp a little making the door difficult to close overtime.

Metal doors, however, are classically weather proof no matter the temperature and also require little maintenance to maintain their exteriors. When it comes to durability, steel and aluminium is incredibly tough, secure and weather resistant. So if it’s longevity you’re looking for these are often considered the best choice. These doors will be bespoke made, which can cost more initially, but also means extra savings in the future through energy efficiency and the endurance of the systems. Both will be made with a metal panel exterior with a high insulating wooden core; aluminium doors, however, will hold up best against weather conditions as steel has been known to rust overtime. With such bespoke door systems it’s even easier to surpass the standard 1.8W/m²K U-value and in fact with some aluminium single door sets (with no glazing options) it’s possible to achieve as low as 1.0W/m²K.

Security and the energy efficiency of your front door go hand in hand. By ensuring quality locks you’ll not only secure your home but also help alleviate drafts, and by choosing strong materials for your front door you can also help protect against forced entry. Metal doors such as aluminium provide extra strength along with ensuring the protection of lock points by being concealed within the frame which makes it harder for a burglar to break in.

High security front door

 Three point locking systems are preferable for front doors as they enable the top and bottom of the door to be simultaneously secured unlike single point locking which lock only at the point where the key is turned. There are also options for anti-drill and anti-bump locks which can cost a little more but also make it much harder for unlawful entry. Look specifically for locks where a key is required from outside even when the door is unlocked and for anti-pick shaped pins. As the main entry point for your home, it’s important to take the time to research your options and install the highest quality systems to make sure your home is protected.

Friday, 23 March 2012

Internal doors... what you should consider when choosing


Everyone’s tastes and needs are different and there are numerous interior door designs and styles out there to suit whatever requirements you may have. For instance, you could be looking for something more traditional such as panel doors for say an old farm house; a clean modern look flush door set for a new-build property or even something completely unique such as your own personal designed motif or printed graphic.

Traditional panel white doors

So what are the typical interior door materials and finishes on the market? In short, there are lots. These typically include solid timber, timber veneer, glass, laminate, painted, metal (usually stainless steel for added security), or honeycomb core – a cheaper alternative to solid door sets, however these don’t have the same feel or durability. In some cases timber veneer doors can cost slightly more than full timber doors, it’s important to bear in mind that solid timber can warp but veneer allows for a stable core with the benefit of a natural wood look and feel. Then there are options for European rebated door styles, different glazing options, numerous paint and coating colours and door furniture options to choose from, so it’s important to do your homework. Lots of the home improvement magazines and websites out there will give good guides and advice

Your door requirements may differ throughout your property. So as well as the more typical hinged internal doors, there will also be options on the market for when space is limited, for instance on small landings or hallways. Sliding doors (usually available in timber or glass) are an ideal solution as either sliding in-front of the wall or into a wall cavity. Narrow panel widths or folding doors are another option taking up half the opening space of a typical door along with sloped doors for awkward areas such as under stair cupboards. It is preferable in such cases to opt for a bespoke door supplier to ensure quality in both appearance and use.

Folding sliding doors used as an internal divide

Another typical requirement could be where light is limited within specific areas of the house. This can quickly be aided with either full glass doors which are available completely clear or with frosted design features or etched motifs, dependent on your own style. Or through glazed door inserts where light is required but complete glazing isn’t practical, for example, a bathroom door where a frosted glass panel could provide enough light but without the embarrassment factor. It’s important to take into account, however, that all glass and some glazed doors will not be available as fire doors.

On the subject of fire doors, usually for standard two storey homes, fire doors will not be required. These only tend to come into play when building or extending to the third storey so for loft conversions or apartments, but it’s important to confirm this with your building inspector to ensure compliance with building regulations.

When choosing your door ironmongery or door furniture there will be lots to choose from. I’d recommend that as well as looking at the design, also take into account the proportions of the door; how the handle feels for comfort and usability along with the situation the door is used in. Quality also should play an important factor in your decision. Cheaper lever handles, for example, often use a plastic inner rose structure to screw onto the door with a metal press on cover; unfortunately using the plastic fixing will not be as durable as a complete metal rose with screw fixing. This would ensure that the handle doesn’t work loose from the door.

But there are lots of handles to do the job  as well as lever handles, such as door knobs (fixed or twist); shell handles for cavity sliders in particular; push/pull handles with push plates for swing doors, and return to door handles where usability for disabled or elderly is required. Available in a range of materials including stainless steel, brass/gold and chrome, when choosing make sure that these will be available with matching escutcheons (lock plate covers), WC thumb turn locks, hinges and door stops.

Once you’ve chosen you doors and ironmongery, it’s time to place that order. When ordering your doors, it’s important to get your door measurements spot on. You’ll need to ensure that you or your builder/carpenter measures the width and height from the finished flooring as well as the depth/thickness of the wall whilst also accounting for additional wall coverings such as tiles. Floor heights are vital especially where frames will need to be cut into to allow for changes in floor coverings.

Veneer door set example

Take into account light switches and layout of the room when making decisions on which side your doors will hang; most doors will open inwards, however, in some small areas such as cloakrooms you’ll likely need to opt for the door to open outwards, unless opting for a space saving sliding door. With said sliding doors, take into account the space available for sliding. If you’re not comfortable measuring the door openings yourselves, your carpenter should know exactly what is required. If he doesn’t, I’d hire someone else.

Once you’ve received your order, installation should be relatively simple dependant on the door option you’ve chosen. Some suppliers, Sunfold Systems for example, supply all doors as complete pre-finished door sets complete with architraves, and pre-fixed ironmongery which means that they are bespoke to your needs with no tweaks required. Standard internal doors will usually require a bit more work as they will often need to be made to fit the opening there and then rather than being manufactured to the exact opening size. Any reputable door supplier whether bespoke made or standard door suppliers like, Wickes for example,  should supply you with paper-based instructions, video demonstrations and the option to opt for a member of their own installation team (usually at an additional cost) to install the doors for you.

Any local carpenter or competent DIYer should have no problem installing bespoke manufactured doors themselves and on average for a complete bespoke door set you’ll be looking at between 45 mins to an hour for a trained carpenter, but anything up to two hours for an average DIY boffin. I’d recommend not to take on a standard non-bespoke door installation and employ a professional. This would on average take three to four hours but not necessarily taking into account additional painting or staining.